It’s shortly before 6 a.m., and the sun hasn’t risen yet. I grab a sweater and wander into the backyard of my beachfront villa at Anantara Koh Yao Yai, passing the reflection of palm trees in my private pool, as the dewy grass gives way to sand.
Then I sit down and watch as beautiful shades of pink, orange and yellow begin to blend along the horizon of Phang Nga Bay while waves quietly break along the shore. It feels like I’m the only person on this island.
Koh Yao Yai is halfway between phu*ket and Krabi, two of Thailand’s most popular tourist destinations, but its pristine stretches of golden beaches, rubber plantations, mangrove forests and quiet fishing villages offer travellers a peaceful break from the colourful chaos that paints other parts of the country.
Still largely undeveloped, Anantara’s opening last October has exposed this unspoiled paradise to visitors keen on tranquil luxury. Its blend of opulence and nature lets you live out your White Lotus fantasy. The hit HBO series, which follows the dysfunction of wealthy guests and employees at fictional White Lotus resorts, is currently filming its third season in and around Koh Samui and phu*ket.
So relax with a classic Thai massage before diving into the Andaman Sea and kicking back to people watch.
Why you should visit
Anantara Koh Yao Yai is one of the latest additions to the hotel brand’s global catalogue of resorts, with 148 suites, villas and penthouses built on top of what was once a coconut palm plantation. You can feel your shoulders drop the minute you step foot on the resort’s private jetty and are transported through lush greenery and bright flowers that cover the 27-acre property.
From a bird’s eye view, the resort looks like a well-manicured golf course with grass roofing that ensures uninterrupted views of greenery and water from its seven high-rises. Below, a giant pool is at the heart of the property with lounge chairs and striped umbrellas dotting its perimeter, perfect for an afternoon nap under the blazing sun. But what makes the resort special is that it caters to everyone.
In the family-friendly section of the resort sits a pool with four waterslides and a kids’ club with professional child care and a sizeable ball pit, providing parents with much-deserved time alone. A range of accommodations are available in this area, but the most fun is the grand family sea-view suite that includes underwater-themed bunkbeds and a wooden slide.
Not too far away, the vibe changes tremendously. Wellness pool villas, secluded from the rest of the resort, overlook a lagoon and offer guests a restful stay perfect for meditation, yoga or in-villa spa treatments.
But peak luxury can be found in the penthouse suites and beachfront villas, both of which come with private butler services and unbeatable views. Guests in the beachfront pool villas can take in the natural surroundings in their private backyards with an outdoor rain shower or oversized bathtub, while guests higher up in the penthouse suites can lounge in their infinity-edged pools and sundecks with daybeds.
Room for improvement
Any new resort needs time to iron out its wrinkles, and I suspect that was the case when I visited in January. Service was more easygoing than desired with lengthy wait times for food and drink at both restaurants and poolside bar. And while your taste buds could take a trip around the world with so many options, it was the Thai food that was underwhelming and left me missing the mainland.
Speaking of, there’s not much to do when you leave the resort. Koh Yao Yai has little in the way of nightlife and not much more than a 7-Eleven in the nearby town. But Anantara makes up for that with a list of activities to choose from, including the sidecar experience (starting at $320) where a local guide takes you to island hotspots, such as picture-perfect Laem Haad Beach, or a local boutique to paint batik, or Baan Rim Nam Restaurant – where I had the best banana dessert I’ve ever tasted. (It was a banana mixture in the hollow of a coconut.)
Since you’re in the neighbourhood
I can’t stress how beautiful this part of the country is, with limestone cliffs and rock formations jutting from the water. There are many nearby islands perfect for lounging or snorkelling, but Hong Island tops my list (the resort offers day trips). On Hong Island, visitors can hike a short but steep trail that opens to panoramic views of islets and the crystal-blue water and white-sand beaches below. Go early to avoid the crowds.
Rooms start at $490 a night, with breakfast and airport transportation from phu*ket airport included through to the end of December. Activities are extra. www.anantara.com/en/koh-yao-yai-phu*ket
The writer was a guest of Anantara Resorts. It did not review or approve the story.
